Links to Educational Saltwater Aquarium Websites:
http://aquarium.ucsd.edu/
http://www.spsnq.qc.ca/a-AN_accueil.html
http://www.reefhq.com.au/
http://waquarium.otted.hawaii.edu/
http://www.sydneyaquarium.com.au/
http://www.sealifeeurope.com/nl/scheveningen/home.htm
http://www.oceanario.pt/site/ol_home_00.asp?popup=1
http://www.underwaterworld.com.sg/
http://www.deepseaworld.com/DeepSeaWorld/HomePage.htm

There are basically three types or divisions of tropical fish, freshwater, saltwater and brackish.  This page is devoted to saltwater fish.

All fishes found in the big sea or oceans are saltwater fish. The water is salty, thus we call it "saltwater".  Most of the fish you see in popular public national aquariums are saltwater fish (marine fish).  These fishes are more colorful and varies greatly in colors and shapes, making them interesting to watch and observe. It is also a big challenge to keep marine fish because of their fragility. If you succeed, there is a great sense of accomplishment and of course visual enjoyment.

Being used to living in oceans, marine fish have very limited abilities to adapt to changing water conditions.  When the water volume is as huge as the ocean, the chemical composition and water quality is almost constant.  With no need to adapt to changes, marine fish are very sensitive fish.

Imagine adding a drop of fruit syrup in a cup of water- you can detect a slight taste when you drink it.  Now add the same size drop of syrup into a large water bottle- the taste is undetectable because it is dispersed too much.  In the same way, in a small fish tank, the waste produced by the fish changes the water quality easier.  Contrasting to public wrong opinion, therefore, it is easier to keep fish in larger fish tanks than smaller ones. If you are a beginner fish keeper, and especially if you really have to start with saltwater fish, I highly recommend you to get as large a tank as you can afford to. However,
I will strongly advise you to keep freshwater fish before going marine, because freshwater fish are more forgiving and will give you more leeway in your learning foundations.

So, If you are looking into salt water aquariums as a hobby, I am sure you have already heard the terms specific gravity, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and more.  If you are like I was when I first started the hobby, you have know idea what any of that stuff is or what it means to your new aquarium.   This simply gives you the basics, if you feel compelled to seek more information there are plenty of other websites and books that go into more detail.

Temperature:
Ideal temperature for marine fish is between 72 & 78 degrees Fahrenheit.  Temperature should not be allowed to fluctuate rapidly, so it is important that you use an aquarium heater to maintain a stable temperature.

Specific Gravity:
A specific gravity of 1.021 - 1.024 is generally accepted by marine fish.  Specific gravity indicates the amount of salt that is in the water.  If the specific gravity is too low, you need to add more salt; if it is too high, you need to add fresh water.  Make changes slowly, as most fish cannot tolerate a rapid change in specific gravity.

Ammonia:
If you are setting up a new salt water aquarium, it is a certainty that you will experience high ammonia levels.  Ammonia is a waste product of aquatic organisms, and will be evident in new aquariums.  Many fish are not tolerant to high ammonia levels, so it is important to wait until ammonia levels are under control before adding many fish.  As your aquarium cycles, you will notice that the ammonia levels will drop and nitrite levels will increase; this is a biological reaction that is turning the ammonia into a less toxic form.  If you experience an increase of ammonia in an established aquarium, it is important to regain control of the levels through water change(s).

Nitrite:
As mentioned earlier, nitrite is caused by a biological reaction involving ammonia.  Although less hazardous than ammonia, high nitrite levels are still not good for many fish, so it is best to wait until your aquarium has cycled to add most fish.  As your aquarium continues to cycle, you will begin to notice that nitrite is falling off, and nitrate is beginning to increase; hang in there... it won't be much longer and your aquarium will be completely cycled.  

Nitrate:
Nitrate is even less toxic than nitrite, so as you can see, your aquarium is beginning to come around.  Once nitrate levels reach their peak, they will start to decline.  When you reach a nitrate level of close to zero it will be safe to begin adding fish. 
  

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Breeding: which is self explanatory and contains a plethora of breeding reports.
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For beginners
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For beginners
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