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http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/management/Coach_Plastic_Plants.html
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http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/management/Gordon&Stuart_Tank_Decor.html
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http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/management/Fenner_LightingQQD.html
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/management/Gussie_Filters.html
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http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/management/Aquariumpros_Chiller.html

For now, we will limit this section to the different types of filters available to you.  It is the one product you must buy, beyond the tank and fish.  When you think about it, all you really need is the tank, water and some fish.  The filter not just cleans and maintains the conditions of the water, but it also functions to oxygenate the water so your fish can breathe.  If you keep the temperature in the 70's in the room you keep your tank in, and depending on the species of fish you buy, you won't need to buy a heater.  Even gravel for the bottom is an option.  However, we understand you will want to buy what are considered the standard products needed to set up your aquarium.
Filter Types

Canister Filter

Basically an enhanced corner filter. A closed box where water is forced through filtration media (mechanical and/or chemical). It can be placed inside the aquarium, or outside (underneath the aquarium or as hang on type). The canister filter has the most powerful mechanical filtration system, and can be used with messy eaters. The down side is that it requires frequent cleaning. Bacteria will also settle in this filter type. Biological filtration can be improved, by placing wet dry wheels at the outflow of the canister filter.

Corner Filter

This is how it started. Water was forced through it. On the inside you would find filter floss or other media. It was mainly a physical/mechanical filter. Beneficial bacteria settled on the medium and provided biological filtration.

This very inexpensive filter is an excellent way to set up a hospital tank. Buy one for pennies on the dollar and use some gravel from your established tank. You will immediately have a working biological and mechanical filter for your hospital tank.

Fluidized Bed Filter

This filter is a recent development, using sand as a bacteria settlement media. In a tubular design, sand is fully submerged in water. The water is pumped upwards through the sand, allowing bacteria to settle within. Additional tubes can be used as pre-filters (mechanical) and also for chemical filters using activated carbon. This filter provides a large surface for bacteria colonies, but sometimes lacks in providing enough oxygen for their performance.

Power Filter

The very easy to maintain power filter hangs on the back of the aquarium (easy access). Water is pulled through a mechanical filtration, using floss and insert cartridges. They also provide enough space for chemical filtration media. Within the last few years a wet dry wheel (biowheel) was developed, to provide an even larger area for bacteria to settle.

Protein Skimmer

The protein skimmer is a chemical filtration method. It takes out dissolved biological waste before it can decompose. This is achieved by a tubular design with air bubbles inside. The waste is attracted to the surface of air bubbles, which then rises to the water surface. There, a skimmer removes the biological waste. This filtration type has revolutionized reef tanks. It only works with high pH and salinity. This filter is for salt-water use only.

Sponge Filter

A sponge filter looks like a tube with a sponge like material inside. As water flows through, bacteria will colonize the porous foam and establish a biological filtration. These sponges also serve as a mechanical filter, removing larger particles from the water. The advanced versions use two sponges, making it easier to preserve bacteria colonies by replacing the sponges at different times.

Using a sponge from an established aquarium can also jump-start a new tank or quarantine/hospital tank.

Undergravel Filter

The undergravel filter (UGF) is basically a perforated plate below the gravel. Water is pumped upward through the gravel by air bubbles, water stream, or a combination of both. This slow flow of water and oxygen allows the bacteria to colonize the gravel.

The UGF is an aid for biological filtration. It does not remove larger waste particles. It has to be well maintained, especially through vacuuming of the gravel. UGF’s are inexpensive, but have a tendency to clog up.

It is recommended to replace this filter as they age. Of course, they can be combined with a power head as a pre-filter for larger particles.

Wet–Dry Filter

Also known as trickle filter. This kind of filter was designed with consideration of the oxygen demand of beneficial bacteria. It consists of a plastic tube with unsubmerged media (floss, bioballs etc.) over which water trickles – hence “Trickle Filter”.  The wet dry filter provides a large air to water surface. The larger the surface structure of the media gets the better it works.

This filter provides no mechanical filtration and works on the principle of the wet dry wheels.  Understanding the basics of filtration - biological, mechanical, and chemical, will enable you to create the best combination for your tank. Put together the best combination, and maintain them well.

Always keep in mind, that biological filtration requires oxygen. An inadequate or interrupted supply will result in the failing of your biological filtration system.

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